Tuesday, December 29, 2015

State College YMCA Indoor Triathlon

JANUARY 31, 2016 @ 8:00 AM - 10:00 AM

1ST ANNUAL INDOOR TRIATHLON
10 MINUTE POOL SWIM + 10 MINUTE INDOOR CYCLE RIDE + 10 MINUTE TREADMILL RUN = TOTAL DISTANCE

$15 PER PERSON
REGISTER ONLINE NOW! (SPACE IS LIMITED)

Join the YMCA this January and get your spring fitness jump started!
Need to get the snow drum blues kicked out of your system? Come join us on Sunday morning, January 31st and try out this new winter twist. While the weather outside may be a little bit frightful, inside the Y, the pool is a nice 80 degrees. Start the event with a 10 minute indoor 25 yard pool swim. After a 3-4 minute transition period, jump on one of our Schwinn Indoor Cycles (w/ computer) beside the pool and spin your heart out for another 10 minutes. Immediately following your ride, you’ll have another 3-4 minutes for T2 to head over to the fitness center where you’ll hop on one of our Precor treadmills and finish with a 10 minute run. We’ll add up your distances from each event to come up with your total distance to rank among all the other competitors.

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Building a Better Bike Cadence

A common mistake by a lot of new cyclists and triathletes is to ride in too big a gear with low cadence ranges of 75-80rpms. Every athlete is different and we all have our own cadence “sweet spot."

By Brad Seng
D3 Multisport.com Coach
When I first started doing triathlons and focused bike training, I kept hearing about this funny acronym “RPM”. I had no idea what it meant. Nor did I understand the direct relationship between efficient biking and the ability to run effectively off the bike. I was a match burner, surging my way over rolling terrain and using big gears on the climbs. Fortunately, I had a good coach who was able to get me to understand the importance of a smooth pedal stroke.

A common mistake by a lot of new cyclists and triathletes is to ride in too big a gear with low cadence ranges of 75-80rpms. Every athlete is different and we all have our own “sweet spot” when it comes to that magical cadence range. Generally speaking though, upper 80s to low-mid 90 rpms is an ideal range. Of course this will vary some with terrain. The key is to be able to bike efficiently while not spinning too high or mashing too big a gear. This takes practice and awareness when biking, but over time you should be able to find your sweet spot. 

During certain times of the year I like to dose my athletes with specific sessions to improve efficiency and the ability to dial in the cadence ranges. One thing to focus on is eliminating any “dead spots” within the pedal stroke. This usually occurs at the six or twelve o’clock position in the pedal stroke. I also encourage athletes to imagine they are cleaning mud off the bottom of their cycling shoe with a scraping motion instead of pulling up when completing the pedal stroke. During easy recovery rides really focus on this technique and a higher cadence if you find yourself on the mashing side of things. If you feel like you are spinning too fast, make a gearing adjustment to a harder gear. Over time, you will know progress is being made as you notice you are able to ride a bigger gear at the same cadence ranges. Cycling with a more consistent cadence in the correct range along with proper energy output will enable you to bike faster and preserve your legs for the run.

Here are a few of my favorite sessions to improve bike cadence:
Note, ' = minutes, " = seconds, WU = Warm-up, 
Spin-ups: Warm-up well for 15’. Next complete the following sequence two times – 5’ at 100rpms, 5’ at 110 rpms, 3’ at 120rpms and 1’ at 130rpms. Recovery is 3’ easy spinning between rep and 5’ between blocks. Remainder of ride easy spinning at comfortably high cadence. 

ILDs: Isolated leg drill. This is best done using a home trainer for safety reasons. WU well for 15’ and then complete the following sequence 8-10 times – 30’’ biking w/left leg only, 30’’ w/right leg only, 1’ easy spinning with both legs. When doing the single leg work, unclip the non-working foot. Easy spinning for the remainder of time. This session will really help identify any dead spots with the single leg work.

Varied Cadences: Warm-up well for 15-20’ and then complete the following sequence 3-4 times through: 2’ high cadence, 2’ normal cadence, 2’ big gear w/lower cadence, 2’ easy. Remainder of ride easy spinning.

Train Well,
Brad Seng
Head Coach - University of Colorado Triathlon Team
Assistant Coach – Team USA ITU World Championships Chicago
Coach - D3 Multisport
Certified Sports Nutritionist

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Feel Good on the Bike and Ride More!

How to Fit a Road Bicycle


This article is focused on road bike fitting and not bike sizing. Often these two descriptions become intertwined but they are completely different.   With that said, fitting a road bicycle works best when you start with the right size bike; or at a minimum a bicycle that is close enough to your right size. 

Sizing a road bicycle is not as complicated as you may have been led to believe, in part due to the reality that a good bike fit actually has little to do with the bicycle per se. Fitting a road bicycle comes down to the contact points (connection points) between the cyclist and their bicycle. These five connection points are: right and left foot, the pelvis and right and left hands. So even if your bike is not the correct “size,” as long as you get the connection points in the ideal place you can still achieve a good and comfortable bike fit. 

A proper bike fit has more to do with the saddle, handlebars, brake levers and hoods, stem and, most importantly, shoes, cleats and pedals.


Read the rest of this article here!

Friday, July 10, 2015

Friendly Competition

Looking to test your fitness? The Hollidaysburg YMCA has a duathlon (run, bike, run) and triathlon (swim, bike, run) on August 1 at Canoe Creek.

Here is a link with more details if you are interested. Canoe Creek Race Series

Monday, July 6, 2015

3 Stretches and Massage Techniques for cyclists

Any repetitive movement can put stress on your body, and cycling is certainly that – if you pedal at 90 rpm, that’s 5,400 revolutions an hour, so it’s understandable that from time to time you might feel the odd ache.
images
DOMS – delayed onset muscle soreness – are a normal sign that your body is being forced to adapt, and as the saying goes ‘No Pain, No Gain’, but sharp pains, or those that feel out of the ordinary or are persistent are quite another thing.
Injuries are often the result of tight muscles elsewhere – so for example, fatigue and tightness in your hips or glutes can extend to pain in the hamstrings and calves if not treated with some careful TLC. When large muscles, such as the glutes, are not able to complete their work, the load is placed upon smaller muscles, and that can lead to injury.
The best form of defense is to stretch and massage muscles before they begin to really suffer. We’ve taken a look at 3 areas that need regular TLC, and how to care for them.
However, if you are struggling with regular discomfort from cycling, it’s a very good idea to have a bike fit – as all 3 of the below (and more!) can be down to an ill fitting bike – easily fixed with a tape measure, plum lines, spirit levels, and a little know how.

1) Glutes/Pirafirmis

Your glutes are made up of your gluteus minimus, gluteus medius, gluteus maximus and tensor fasciae latae. The gluteus maximus is the largest of all, and is the most obvious – making up most of your bum cheek – it does a lot of  the work in cycling. Very close to it, is your Piraformis, a very tiny muscle that is actually used to rotate your leg outwards. When this muscle gets tight, or stressed, it can cause quite a bit of pain – even tightening up and putting pressure on the sciatic nerve, creating a condition called Piraformis Syndrome, where pain runs down the back of the entire leg.
I’ve struggled with a knotty Piraformis on multiple occasions and can vouch for two treatment methods:
> Rolling on a tennis ball/lacrosse ball: This sounds bizarre, and I’ll admit it’s somewhat (very) painful – but it absolutely works. Simply place the ball on the ground, and sit on it, placing all your body weight on one side, then roll. When you find the right spot (Piraformis Syndrome can also be called Wallet Syndrome – X marks the spot right where your back pockets sit) you’ll know about it. Don’t be too brutal, as too much massage can cause more damage, take it easy and do this little and often if you can.

> Piraformis Stretch: Lie on your back, with both knees bent. Lift your left leg, and place the ankle on your right knee – this should result in a stretch right through your left glutes. If this isn’t strong enough, place both hands behind the thigh of your right leg, and raise the leg off the ground. Do this on both sides – remember pain in the left can be as a result of tightness in the right, and vice versa.

2) IT Band

The IT band – or Iliotibial band – runs alongside your outer thigh, right from the hip to your knee. Knee pain is one of the most common complaints cyclists suffer from, and there are very many causes – but one of them is a tight IT band, pulling on the knee cap.
Regular TLC for the IT band can help to prevent this sort of knee pain:
> Use a foam roller along the outer thigh:  If you don’t have a foam roller, a tennis ball, deodorant can, or even a bottle of water filler with ice will do the job.  To do this, lie on one side with your foam roller below your knee, and gently roll so that you are resting on your hip. Do this slowly, and if you find a point that is more painful, stop there for 10 seconds or so to help the muscle release. If the IT band is tight, this can be painful, but stick at it as it is worth it.
> Stretch the IT band: Stand with your legs crossed, your right leg behind your left. Lean to your left, holding on to a railing/chair/door if you need to keep your balance. If you don’t feel this stretch strongly enough, lift your left hand above your head. If you still struggle to feel the stretch, lean forwards to touch your toes (or get as close as you can).

3) Back pain

Many cyclists spend a lot of time with their backs curved, and their arms reaching forwards for the handlebars. This isn’t a natural position, and to make matters worse, many of us are compounding the problem with desk jobs that have us leaning over computers during the day, too.
A great way to reverse the forward bend is to counter it with a backwards bend. When you get off the bike, place your hands on your bum, and lean back to look at the sky. If need be, you can nonchalantly whistle and pretend to be bird watching.
Another great way to stretch your back out is to lie on your front, with your hands on the floor either side of you. Push up from this position, keeping your hips on the ground – and extend as far as you can – you should feel a stretch all the way down your lower back. My ballet teacher used to make us then lift our feet up to tough the crown of our heads – but this isn’t entirely necessary for most cyclists!
Remember – these are stretches and massage techniques to help prevent problems caused by tight muscles – if you are already experiencing pain that is out of the ordinary for you, see a physiotherapist or osteopath, and get a bike fit!

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Carbon Fiber vs Aluminum vs Steel vs Titanium

BY  /  TUESDAY, 10 DECEMBER 2013 
What is the real difference between carbon fiber vs aluminum vs steel vs titanium… What are the Pros and Cons of each material?

Carbon Fiber

Most high-end bikes are made from this material and for good reason:

Pros

  • Lightest material
  • Strongest material
  • Stiffest material
  • Best shock absorption
  • Infinitely mouldable to any design
  • Flexible where it needs to be
  • Won’t rust or corrode like steel

Cons

  • Expensive
  • Not all carbon is created equal
  • Can crack/fracture
  • Strength and stiffness depend on design

Aluminum

Many entry level bikes are made from aluminum because it can be made stiff and light enough for a great ride.

Pros

  • Light
  • Strong
  • Stiff
  • Mouldable
  • Great for climbing and sprinting
  • Won’t rust or corrode
  • Less expensive than carbon fiber

Cons

  • Harsh on rough roads
  • Can fatigue over time (Leads to overbuilding which adds to weight)
  • Not easily repaired
  • Weak joints

Steel

Steel will last a life time. It is also the easiest to repair, making it a great bike for touring.

Pros

  • Inexpensive
  • Strong
  • Flexes enough for a soft ride
  • Most durable of all the materials
  • Lively feel
  • Easy to work with and repair

Cons

  • Heavy
  • Rust/corrosion
  • Flexes too much for racing

Titanium

Titanium is a metal that takes aspects from aluminum and steel… better shock absorption that aluminum but not quite as light.

Pros

  • Bullet proof
  • Its density is between that of steel and aluminum which makes it stiff but shock absorbing
  • Lively feel
  • Shock absorbing
  • Does not corrode

Cons

  • Expensive
  • Difficult to make aero shapes due to welding considerations
  • Difficult to repair
  • Stiffness is traded for lightweight

My Preferences…

I have at least one bike made out of every material. I use carbon fiber bikes the most; but here are the exceptions:
Winter riding - I use an aluminum frame as I do not want to ruin my more expensive carbon fiber frames, but still want a bike that climbs fast.
Downhill Mountain Bike – I like my titanium frame. I feel indestructible going downhill.
Touring – I would use a steel frame due to the ease of repairs and dependability.
I realize not everyone is fortunate enough to have such a wide selection of bikes and price point is always a factor. If you are just getting into cycling then most of the time a carbon fiber frame is not necessary. My first bike was aluminum and it was fantastic. I still have it… and I still ride it.
Each material has different qualities keep them in mind when you go to purchase your next ride.

Monday, June 15, 2015

2016 Liv City Bikes are Cute, Comfy, and Fun

This article is from Bicycling Magazine

Brand new Flourish and Suede step-throughs offer a stylish ride for around-town cruising



GLORIA LIU


Liv, Giant’s women’s brand, has launched two new urban bikes for women: The Suede and the Flourish. 



Both the Suede and the Flourish feature step-through frames built with Giant’s most affordable grade of aluminum, and chromoly steel forks. Frame geometry on both bikes enable the rider to sit in an upright position, with feet farther forward than on a typical road or mountain bike. This also allows the rider to put her feet flat on the ground while she’s in the saddle, rather than having to reach with her toes. Sherman says this position provides confidence in urban riding situations where there may be constant start-stopping, and is intended to be more comfortable for riders who may be newer to cycling. That may be true, but there's also a broader appeal: I spend a lot of time on road and mountain bikes and I enjoyed the feeling of sitting upright and just cruising along. It felt a little like riding one of those motorized shopping carts and it definitely contributed to our giggles en route to happy hour.
The Suede features a single ring up front and a Shimano derailleur (7- or 8-speed, depending on the model you get), with an easy-to-use twist shifter. All models also have a chain cover to protect your jeans and boots from grease, a leather saddle by Selle Royale, leather grips, and a sweet little bell. The Suede 2 is $425; the Suede 1 ($565) gets upgrades that include a rack, fenders, and a basket. As an add-on, Liv also sells colorful, patterned cloth baskets that feature handles and drawstring closures, so you can take them off the bike and use them as a large handbag. They bike comes in five colors, including this eye-catching Coral option with turquoise fenders.

The Flourish comes with more gearing options, with three rings up front and a 7-speed Shimano IGH rear derailleur. The Flourish 2 ($620) that Sherman showed us comes with an oversize wicker basket that’s big enough to hold a full daypack and a cushioned leather spring saddle that helps smooth the ride. The swept handlebar enables you to hold on while sitting up (though the steering takes a little getting used to, it’s quicker than a flat bar), and fenders shield you from road splash. And because sometimes you don’t always remember to bring a light for your commute, or you end up staying out later than you think (like we did yesterday), I was excited to find that the Flourish 2 has a built-in lighting system: There's an integrated rear blinky light and a headlight powered by a dynamo hub that lit my way to the bar and then home. Pricing starts at $360 for the Flourish 4 (no lighting, fenders, or chain guard) and goes up to $620 for the Flourish 2. Several color options are available, too.

Monday, June 8, 2015

Rothrock TrailMix June 13



Happy Valley Biking is proud to present for the 4th year, the Rothrock TrailMix, on the second Saturday in June - June 13, 2015. The race will begin at the base of Tussey Mountain with the course running on the beautiful trails in Rothrock State Forest.

The objective of our race is to (1) provide for a shorter race course in the Rothrock area - 19 mile "Short Course", (2) provide a race course that uses some of the most technical trails in Rothrock State Forest - 36 mile (MASS/IMBA Epic) course, and (3) to give back to our biking community and local trail system and trail volunteer groups.

Both courses of this race are designed for the intermediate to advanced technical skill level rider. This is not a good race for a novice or beginner.  The trails in Rothrock are naturally rocky and require excellent bike handling skills.

Back by popular demand, the Dice Run category in the Short Course is for those mountain bike enthusiasts that are more of the gambler as opposed to the racer. So if you're not into racing, but into riding and supporting a great event, come on out and ride! Prizes will be awarded for the Dice Run category based on the roll of the dice.

The Rothrock TrailMix is a Mid-Atlantic Super Series (MASS) Endurance Event and an IMBA Epic Ride Route. Proceeds will benefit the local trails and trail system in Rothrock State Forest, as well as the local volunteer groups who help maintain the multi-use system.

All participants receive swag - the earlier you register, the more you get! Awards and prizes to top finishers in all classes!

Food and STRAUB Beer will be provided to participants at the finish line!

Monday, June 1, 2015

How to Choose Cycling Shorts

This article along with many others can be found at http://www.roadbikerider.com/clothing/how-choose-cycling-shorts


You should choose road-cycling shorts based on the quality of materials and construction. But also crucial is how well they conform to your unique anatomy. Sometimes a relatively inexpensive pair may work better for you than a high-zoot model.
Shorts, like saddles, are tough to recommend because of differences in butts, crotches, seats and riding positions. Every rider has to try on shorts, buy the model/size that fits snugly but comfortably, then hope for the best on the bike. It's hit or miss, and some luck is involved. Just as with saddles, there is no universal answer.
That said, here are guidelines that'll point you toward better choices.
  • Price. Generally, the more expensive the shorts, the higher the quality. Avoid cheap shorts because the material and construction may be substandard. They may be sewn from only 4 or 6 pieces ("panels"), which won't give you the best anatomical fit. The padded liner ("chamois") may not be large enough, soft enough or sewn without irritating seams. Cheap shorts aren't as durable, either, so in the long run they really aren't a bargain. When touring and washing shorts by hand, wringing can break threads and blow out seams if the manufacturer cut corners on quality.
  • Panels. The more the better. Usually, 8-panel shorts conform to your body better than those made from fewer pieces. Better manufacturers use flat-seam stitching so additional panels won't result in abrasion or other discomforts.
  • Liner. Crotch liners are synthetic nowadays (not real chamois leather). That's a good thing because the material can't dry, crack and cause more irritation than it prevents. A large, smooth, absorbent, one-piece, moderately padded liner has the best chance of feeling comfortable. Liners that have seams, grooves, distinct sections and/or a waffle-like texture may work fine for you -- or maybe not. There's no way of knowing for sure before riding. Beware of thick padding, which can bunch and chafe. Also problematic are gel inserts. Because they're in plastic compartments, moisture transfer can be blocked, causing excessive dampness and skin irritation.
  • Leg length. This goes up and down like hem lengths in the fashion world. Long, so-called "Belgian" shorts will be in style for a while, putting the legs just above the knee. Then the pendulum swings the other way. Short shorts, like those marketed for spinning classes, are favored by riders who want to avoid tan lines that show when wearing casual shorts. But they shouldn't be so short that the nose of the saddle rubs on bare skin.
  • Waist length. Proper cycling shorts are cut high in back to keep skin covered in the bent-over riding position. Likewise, they are low in front so you can bend forward without restriction. The front shouldn't be so low, though, that it's below your hip bones with nothing to help hold it up.
  • Waist band. The elastic should be wide enough that it doesn't feel like a cord around your middle. Some manufacturers add a drawstring. Just elastic is fine. Just a drawstring is not. If that's the only thing keeping shorts in place, you'll feel restricted in certain positions or when breathing deeply.
  • Leg grippers. Nothing is more frustrating than shorts that ride up and let material bunch in the crotch. Check the leg grippers to be sure they're wide, made of "sticky" rubber-like material and securely sewn in. The legs should feel comfortably snug, not tight.
  • Stretch. Most shorts are made of a stretchy fabric generically called spandex. They're easy to pull on and don't feel like you're wearing a 19th century corset. On the other hand, you may come across shorts with fabric that purposely resists stretching. The idea is to provide help to your pedal stroke. The fabric "stores" kinetic energy on the rear part of the stroke and releases it when you push down. This concept is also used in competition suits for weight lifters. I'm not aware of any studies that prove a benefit for cyclists.
  • Bibs. Shorts with built-in shoulder straps can't sag. They keep the chamois snug against the crotch to limit movement and irritation. For men, this prevents the chance of things moving out of place when pedaling out of the saddle. However, the high front makes it difficult for guys to urinate. (Some prefer to roll up one leg instead of contorting to pull down the front.) Women usually prefer shorts without bibs so they don't have to remove their jersey to take what cycling commentator Phil Liggett calls a "natural break." Bib shorts are more expensive than standard shorts.
  • Size. It's best to try on shorts before buying them. Sizing varies among manufacturers. Fred is 5-foot-10 and just under 160 pounds, but wears size XL in some shorts while M is too big in others. Some U.S. manufacturers have noticed the "plumping of America" and cut their clothing bigger. It's risky to buy shorts by mailorder unless you're replacing a model and size you've worn before.
  • Overallfit. In general, snugger is better. You don't want any uncomfortable restriction, but you do want the shorts to stay exactly in place. Remember that properly designed cycling shorts will look a bit baggy in the butt when you're standing in front of the dressing room mirror. Then crouch forward into the riding position and watch them mold to your body.

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

10 Bike Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

How to avoid common pitfalls when you're just starting to ride

It’s National Bike Month, and we’re all looking forward to having more company in the bike lane. But if you’re a beginning rider, knowing the basic rules of the road might not be enough. Here are a few common traps for new cyclists—and simple fixes to make riding more safe and enjoyable.



Seat too low
Experiencing pain in the front of your knee? Your seat is probably too low, causing you to under-extend your pedal stroke. At the right seat height, your knee should be slightly bent at the bottom of your pedal stroke, when the crankarm is parallel to the seat tube, not perpendicular to the ground. To check this, pedal unclipped with your heels on the pedals. You should barely maintain contact with the pedal at the bottom of the stroke, without rocking your pelvis. Measure the distance between the bottom bracket and the top of the seat. This is your seat height.

Your local bike shop can do a basic bike fit for you.

Assume you need all the best gear
You don’t need fancy clothes, clipped-in shoes, or a top-of-the-line bike to become a cyclist. Sure, slick equipment can be a lot of fun, but there’s nothing like smoking a bunch of high-end carbon bikes on a climb when you’re riding an old beater. The important thing is that you just get out there and ride—and worry about any potential upgrades later.
Bad bike fit
How your bike fits you is the most important aspect of riding. If the fit is painful, you’re not going to spend much time in the saddle, no matter how excited you are to ride that new bike. To get the right fit, two elements are key: seat height and reach. The seat height should be high enough to give you a very slight bend in your knee when your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Proper reach means your arms and torso make a 45-degree angle over the bike. Too long, and your back will be sore reaching for the handlebars; too short and your knees will be too close to your arms. When you’re shopping for a bike, make sure to take it for a test ride to see that the size is correct for you. 
Not maintaining your bike
You don’t have to be a pro wrench, but routine maintenance will not only save you a bundle at the bike shop but also prolong the life of your bike. Check out these three super-easy maintenance tasks your bike mechanic wishes you’d do.
Too much too soon
One of the biggest sources of injury comes from trying to take on too much mileage before you’re ready. Build up slowly, ease in, and give your body time to adjust to new distances. Similarly, if you’re on a training ride, don’t start too fast and risk burnout and fatigue in the second half. Warm up during the first third of the ride, then settle into a rhythm for the second, and give it everything you’ve got for the final third.
Not carrying a spare or a patch kit
One minute you’re out there on the trail, cruising along with the perfect tailwind, having the time of your life. Then that unmistakable sound of air hissing out of your tires shatters your peaceful reverie, and the party is over. If your flat tire backup plan is to phone a friend, take a few minutes and check out this guide to changing a tube or patching one. You won’t believe how much more independent you’ll feel with the proper tools on hand—a spare, a patch kit, levers, and a mini-pump—and the know-how to get yourself back on the road in 15 minutes.
Not using your gears
Gears are your best friends on a climb, and your greatest source of speed on a long, rolling stretch. But it does take a little practice to get the hang of when and how to shift into your most efficient gear. Here’s a basic guide to using all your gears.  
Not respecting the pack
Group rides have their own protocol and etiquette for a reason—it’s easy to cause a crash if your riding isn't predictable. If it’s your first time riding with a new group, hang at the back, observe, and ask for help if you need it. For more on group-riding rules and technique, check out this article.
Not refueling enough
If you’re only riding for an hour, you don’t need to eat on the bike (but bring water). But if you’re planning to ride over two hours, bring a snack along and start eating 45 minutes to an hour into your ride, and continue to eat small amounts every 15 to 20 minutes. Forgetting to refuel can put your body into a deficit and cause you to bonk—or go into a hypoglycemic state. Tiredness, irritability, dizziness, nausea, confusion—it’s not a strong way to finish a ride.

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

A little stretchy (and it's free)

Sage Rountree: Yoga For Cyclists



This short online yoga practice is appropriate for cyclists—as well as anyone who spends time sitting in a chair each day. Start with a gentle spinal warm up that also targets the front of the hips and chest, releasing tightness. Move into a series of lunges to stretch the hips front and back, inside and outside. Finish with a supported back bend to release the hip flexors further. Have a yoga block or a blanket on hand for this practice.

Yoga for Cyclists

Also, here is a link for a 20 min Yoga for Runners from Ekhart Yoga.

Yoga for Runners


Monday, May 18, 2015

Trail running and hiking

I probably can't say it enough - I love trail running and hiking! Although that doesn't mean that I am super fast, I'm usually middle to back of the pack crossing the finish line, but I have yet to DNF (Did Not Finish) so there's that! (Just means I am stubborn, I guess.)

My longest distance has been 50 miles, but now I tend to like the 16 to 20 mile distances  as it doesn't require as many (or any?) long training runs. I want to be out on the trails every weekend not sitting at home resting or recovering from an injury. I've found as I get older I need to carefully monitor my aches and pains and rest or shorten my mileage, to prevent something minor turning into something major.


Mother's Day hike - 1,000 steps 2013

I like letting my mind rest and not focus on all the tasks I could be doing, instead I enjoy  not thinking about my phone, email, Facebook, yardwork.....my only thoughts are 'When will this hill end?' or 'I wonder if I have enough food and water to finish the race'.

If anyone is looking for a hiking or trail running partner send me a message, I would love the company! I've already registered for the Call of the Wilds in August, so I'll need to get some hours on my feet in the next few months. This race is quite challenging, one of the climbs is several miles. Oh....and they call it a marathon but it's really 29.5 miles! This year I hope to cut a few hours off my time by doing some running and then power hiking the climbs. We plan on doing some practice hike/runs of 15ish miles in June if anyone wants to get a preview of the course.



Mother's Day Hike 2014 - Mid State Trail near Martinsburg

With all of that, here are some upcoming trail races I've got my eye on. I've done all of these at some point so if you have a question about anything let me know. Most are hiker friendly and have generous cut off times.

June 6 - Rothrock Trail Challenge
July 26 - Run with the Deer Flies
August 1 - Lost Turkey Trail Ultra
August 16 - Call of the Wilds Marathon
September 12 - Rockin the Knob (Blue Knob)
September 20 - Dam Half
October 11 - Green Monster
Early November - Sweat for the Vets
Black Friday - Hyner training run

Have a great day and get outside!