Carbon Fiber vs Aluminum vs Steel vs Titanium

BY LEE AGUR /  TUESDAY, 10 DECEMBER 2013 

What is the real difference between carbon fiber vs aluminum vs steel vs titanium… What are the Pros and Cons of each material?

Carbon Fiber

Most high-end bikes are made from this material and for good reason:

Pros

• Lightest material
• Strongest material
• Stiffest material
• Best shock absorption
• Infinitely mouldable to any design
• Flexible where it needs to be
• Won’t rust or corrode like steel

Cons

• Expensive
• Not all carbon is created equal
• Can crack/fracture
• Strength and stiffness depend on design

Aluminum

Many entry level bikes are made from aluminum because it can be made stiff and light enough for a great ride.

Pros

• Light
• Strong
• Stiff
• Mouldable
• Great for climbing and sprinting
• Won’t rust or corrode
• Less expensive than carbon fiber

Cons

• Harsh on rough roads
• Can fatigue over time (Leads to overbuilding which adds to weight)
• Not easily repaired
• Weak joints

Steel

Steel will last a life time. It is also the easiest to repair, making it a great bike for touring.

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Strong
• Flexes enough for a soft ride
• Most durable of all the materials
• Lively feel
• Easy to work with and repair

Cons

• Heavy
• Rust/corrosion
• Flexes too much for racing

Titanium

Titanium is a metal that takes aspects from aluminum and steel… better shock absorption that aluminum but not quite as light.

Pros

• Bullet proof
• Its density is between that of steel and aluminum which makes it stiff but shock absorbing
• Lively feel
• Shock absorbing
• Does not corrode

Cons

• Expensive
• Difficult to make aero shapes due to welding considerations
• Difficult to repair
• Stiffness is traded for lightweight

My Preferences…

I have at least one bike made out of every material. I use carbon fiber bikes the most; but here are the exceptions:

Winter riding - I use an aluminum frame as I do not want to ruin my more expensive carbon fiber frames, but still want a bike that climbs fast.

Downhill Mountain Bike – I like my titanium frame. I feel indestructible going downhill.

Touring – I would use a steel frame due to the ease of repairs and dependability.

I realize not everyone is fortunate enough to have such a wide selection of bikes and price point is always a factor. If you are just getting into cycling then most of the time a carbon fiber frame is not necessary. My first bike was aluminum and it was fantastic. I still have it… and I still ride it.

Each material has different qualities keep them in mind when you go to purchase your next ride.

What are all those parts called?

2016 Liv City Bikes are Cute, Comfy, and Fun

This article is from Bicycling Magazine

Brand new Flourish and Suede step-throughs offer a stylish ride for around-town cruising

BYGLORIA LIU

Liv, Giant’s women’s brand, has launched two new urban bikes for women: The Suede and the Flourish. 

Both the Suede and the Flourish feature step-through frames built with Giant’s most affordable grade of aluminum, and chromoly steel forks. Frame geometry on both bikes enable the rider to sit in an upright position, with feet farther forward than on a typical road or mountain bike. This also allows the rider to put her feet flat on the ground while she’s in the saddle, rather than having to reach with her toes. Sherman says this position provides confidence in urban riding situations where there may be constant start-stopping, and is intended to be more comfortable for riders who may be newer to cycling. That may be true, but there's also a broader appeal: I spend a lot of time on road and mountain bikes and I enjoyed the feeling of sitting upright and just cruising along. It felt a little like riding one of those motorized shopping carts and it definitely contributed to our giggles en route to happy hour.

The Suede features a single ring up front and a Shimano derailleur (7- or 8-speed, depending on the model you get), with an easy-to-use twist shifter. All models also have a chain cover to protect your jeans and boots from grease, a leather saddle by Selle Royale, leather grips, and a sweet little bell. The Suede 2 is $425; the Suede 1 ($565) gets upgrades that include a rack, fenders, and a basket. As an add-on, Liv also sells colorful, patterned cloth baskets that feature handles and drawstring closures, so you can take them off the bike and use them as a large handbag. They bike comes in five colors, including this eye-catching Coral option with turquoise fenders.

The Flourish comes with more gearing options, with three rings up front and a 7-speed Shimano IGH rear derailleur. The Flourish 2 ($620) that Sherman showed us comes with an oversize wicker basket that’s big enough to hold a full daypack and a cushioned leather spring saddle that helps smooth the ride. The swept handlebar enables you to hold on while sitting up (though the steering takes a little getting used to, it’s quicker than a flat bar), and fenders shield you from road splash. And because sometimes you don’t always remember to bring a light for your commute, or you end up staying out later than you think (like we did yesterday), I was excited to find that the Flourish 2 has a built-in lighting system: There's an integrated rear blinky light and a headlight powered by a dynamo hub that lit my way to the bar and then home. Pricing starts at $360 for the Flourish 4 (no lighting, fenders, or chain guard) and goes up to $620 for the Flourish 2. Several color options are available, too.

Rothrock TrailMix June 13

Happy Valley Biking is proud to present for the 4th year, the Rothrock TrailMix, on the second Saturday in June - June 13, 2015. The race will begin at the base of Tussey Mountain with the course running on the beautiful trails in Rothrock State Forest.

The objective of our race is to (1) provide for a shorter race course in the Rothrock area - 19 mile "Short Course", (2) provide a race course that uses some of the most technical trails in Rothrock State Forest - 36 mile (MASS/IMBA Epic) course, and (3) to give back to our biking community and local trail system and trail volunteer groups.

Both courses of this race are designed for the intermediate to advanced technical skill level rider. This is not a good race for a novice or beginner.  The trails in Rothrock are naturally rocky and require excellent bike handling skills.

Back by popular demand, the Dice Run category in the Short Course is for those mountain bike enthusiasts that are more of the gambler as opposed to the racer. So if you're not into racing, but into riding and supporting a great event, come on out and ride! Prizes will be awarded for the Dice Run category based on the roll of the dice.

The Rothrock TrailMix is a Mid-Atlantic Super Series (MASS) Endurance Event and an IMBA Epic Ride Route. Proceeds will benefit the local trails and trail system in Rothrock State Forest, as well as the local volunteer groups who help maintain the multi-use system.

All participants receive swag - the earlier you register, the more you get! Awards and prizes to top finishers in all classes!

Food and STRAUB Beer will be provided to participants at the finish line!

http://www.happyvalleybiking.com/

How to Choose Cycling Shorts

This article along with many others can be found at http://www.roadbikerider.com/clothing/how-choose-cycling-shorts

You should choose road-cycling shorts based on the quality of materials and construction. But also crucial is how well they conform to your unique anatomy. Sometimes a relatively inexpensive pair may work better for you than a high-zoot model.

Shorts, like saddles, are tough to recommend because of differences in butts, crotches, seats and riding positions. Every rider has to try on shorts, buy the model/size that fits snugly but comfortably, then hope for the best on the bike. It's hit or miss, and some luck is involved. Just as with saddles, there is no universal answer.

That said, here are guidelines that'll point you toward better choices.

• Price. Generally, the more expensive the shorts, the higher the quality. Avoid cheap shorts because the material and construction may be substandard. They may be sewn from only 4 or 6 pieces ("panels"), which won't give you the best anatomical fit. The padded liner ("chamois") may not be large enough, soft enough or sewn without irritating seams. Cheap shorts aren't as durable, either, so in the long run they really aren't a bargain. When touring and washing shorts by hand, wringing can break threads and blow out seams if the manufacturer cut corners on quality.
• Panels. The more the better. Usually, 8-panel shorts conform to your body better than those made from fewer pieces. Better manufacturers use flat-seam stitching so additional panels won't result in abrasion or other discomforts.
• Liner. Crotch liners are synthetic nowadays (not real chamois leather). That's a good thing because the material can't dry, crack and cause more irritation than it prevents. A large, smooth, absorbent, one-piece, moderately padded liner has the best chance of feeling comfortable. Liners that have seams, grooves, distinct sections and/or a waffle-like texture may work fine for you -- or maybe not. There's no way of knowing for sure before riding. Beware of thick padding, which can bunch and chafe. Also problematic are gel inserts. Because they're in plastic compartments, moisture transfer can be blocked, causing excessive dampness and skin irritation.
• Leg length. This goes up and down like hem lengths in the fashion world. Long, so-called "Belgian" shorts will be in style for a while, putting the legs just above the knee. Then the pendulum swings the other way. Short shorts, like those marketed for spinning classes, are favored by riders who want to avoid tan lines that show when wearing casual shorts. But they shouldn't be so short that the nose of the saddle rubs on bare skin.
• Waist length. Proper cycling shorts are cut high in back to keep skin covered in the bent-over riding position. Likewise, they are low in front so you can bend forward without restriction. The front shouldn't be so low, though, that it's below your hip bones with nothing to help hold it up.
• Waist band. The elastic should be wide enough that it doesn't feel like a cord around your middle. Some manufacturers add a drawstring. Just elastic is fine. Just a drawstring is not. If that's the only thing keeping shorts in place, you'll feel restricted in certain positions or when breathing deeply.
• Leg grippers. Nothing is more frustrating than shorts that ride up and let material bunch in the crotch. Check the leg grippers to be sure they're wide, made of "sticky" rubber-like material and securely sewn in. The legs should feel comfortably snug, not tight.
• Stretch. Most shorts are made of a stretchy fabric generically called spandex. They're easy to pull on and don't feel like you're wearing a 19th century corset. On the other hand, you may come across shorts with fabric that purposely resists stretching. The idea is to provide help to your pedal stroke. The fabric "stores" kinetic energy on the rear part of the stroke and releases it when you push down. This concept is also used in competition suits for weight lifters. I'm not aware of any studies that prove a benefit for cyclists.
• Bibs. Shorts with built-in shoulder straps can't sag. They keep the chamois snug against the crotch to limit movement and irritation. For men, this prevents the chance of things moving out of place when pedaling out of the saddle. However, the high front makes it difficult for guys to urinate. (Some prefer to roll up one leg instead of contorting to pull down the front.) Women usually prefer shorts without bibs so they don't have to remove their jersey to take what cycling commentator Phil Liggett calls a "natural break." Bib shorts are more expensive than standard shorts.
• Size. It's best to try on shorts before buying them. Sizing varies among manufacturers. Fred is 5-foot-10 and just under 160 pounds, but wears size XL in some shorts while M is too big in others. Some U.S. manufacturers have noticed the "plumping of America" and cut their clothing bigger. It's risky to buy shorts by mailorder unless you're replacing a model and size you've worn before.
• Overallfit. In general, snugger is better. You don't want any uncomfortable restriction, but you do want the shorts to stay exactly in place. Remember that properly designed cycling shorts will look a bit baggy in the butt when you're standing in front of the dressing room mirror. Then crouch forward into the riding position and watch them mold to your body.